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Decorating the temples

Novices and monks crafts delicate lanterns made from bamboo and brightly coloured paper to decorate the temples. It becomes something of a friendly competition, with each temple keen to display more lanterns than the others.

A few weeks before the festivities, I visited a temple on the outskirts of Luang Prabang, to help make star-shaped lanterns for the festival. It turned out to be more challenging than I expected.

You start by making two bamboo stars and joining their points with elastic bands – seems simple enough. But to make the lantern three-dimensional, you have to fit small sticks between the stars, and that’s where the real difficulty lies – the pressure kept pinging the stars apart. Once the frame is finally secure, it’s covered with paper and decorated with intricate patterns and colourful accessories.

By the festival weekend, hundreds of glowing lanterns cover the temples. They’re lovely by day and utterly mesmerising by night. Take the time to wander through each temple and admire the variety of designs — you’ll be surprised by what you find. I even spotted lanterns shaped like football logos and a Lao Airlines plane.

Buddhist temple etiquette

Temples are first and foremost places of worship, so it’s important to remain quiet and respectful during your visit. Before entering, make sure your shoulders and knees are covered, and remove your shoes and hat. It will be obvious were to leave your shoes outside.

Avoid touching or sitting near a Buddha statue, or even on the platform it rests upon. If you sit, ensure your feet are pointed away from the statue, as showing the soles of your feet is considered disrespectful. Pointing is also seen as impolite; instead, gesture with your right hand, palm facing upwards. When leaving the temple, walk backwards until you’ve put some distance between yourself and the Buddha before turning around.

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Floating lights

All the way down the riverbank on the last evening of the festival, you’ll also see hundreds of small twinkling lights. These are called krathongs, small floating offerings traditionally made from a slice of banana trunk, with banana leaves folded in patterns around the sides to form a basket. They’re then filled with bright orange flowers and finished with incense sticks and candles. Some families also add food or coins.

At the water’s edge, the candles are lit, prayers are whispered, and the little “boat of light” is gently set afloat, carrying wishes and gratitude downstream. You can buy a krathong from one of the many stalls around town or even make your own. I made mine at the local library and gave a small donation for the materials.

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The boat competition

Later in the evening, much larger lanterns are set afloat on the river. In the weeks leading up to the festival, nearby villages work together to create enormous floating lanterns. Each is unique and incredibly detailed, in 2016 I saw shapes including birds and dragons. These stunning creations are paraded down Main Street towards Wat Xiengthong, where they’re judged in a lively competition.

It’s a spectacular sight, best experienced right there on the street. Many restaurants have outdoor seating, so you can grab a table and enjoy the spectacle. There’s music and hundreds of people carry handheld lanterns of every imaginable shape alongside the larger floats. When the winners are announced, the crowd naturally wanders towards the river. Follow them and experience the beautiful chaos that follows.

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Where to stay

Luang Prabang is flooded with people from the surrounding villages and hundreds of tourists. Be sure to book accommodation in advance and arrive a few days before the festival to enjoy the preparations.

Visited October 2016
Little Amy Tours
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