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Old Hanoi districts

Old Hanoi is contained within four districts: Hoàn Kiếm, Ba Đình, Hai Bà Trưng and Đống Đa. Wherever you are in the city the streets full of scooters. When crossing the road here you can’t depend on traffic lights. Just walk slowly and the traffic will weave around you.

Hoàn Kiếm
The Old Quarter is a maze of 36 historic streets, once tied to specific trades like silk, paper and silver. Today, they mix traditional shops with cafes, restaurants and hotels, making it the perfect place to wander around. You’ve probably seen pictures of nearby Hoàn Kiếm Lake with the pretty Ngọc Sơn Temple nestled on an island linked by a red bridge. Just south lies the French Quarter, with wide boulevards and grand colonial buildings.

Ba Đình
The political centre where you’ll find the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum – An immense grey granite structure where the embalmed body of Ho Chi Minh is displayed. It’s surrounded by the One Pillar Pagoda (a unique wooden temple built on a single stone pillar), the Ho Chi Minh Museum and the Presidential Palace.

Đống Đa
Known for the Temple of Literature and Vietnam’s first national university.

Hai Bà Trưng
University area with shopping centres and buzzing nightlife.

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Places to explore

The Old Quarter
Get lost in the maze of 36 narrow streets are each historically associated with a trade or craft – such as paper, silk and silver. Today, some streets still specialise in certain goods, but they are also blended with cafes, restaurants, bars and hotels. It’s one of the best areas to just wander around.

Hoàn Kiếm Lake
At the heart of Hanoi, Hoàn Kiếm Lake is a lovely place for a walk. According to legend, Emperor Lê Lợi was given a magical sword to drive out the Chinese from Vietnam. After his victory, a golden turtle took the weapon into the lake and returned it to heaven, giving the name Hoàn Kiếm – the Lake of the Restored Sword.

Walk around the lake early morning where residents practise t’ai chi on the shore. Visit during the day to explore Ngọc Sơn Temple, perched on a small island and connected to the shore by a bright red wooden bridge. Open daily 8am – 6pm 30,000 VND

From Friday evening until late Sunday, the streets around the lake are closed to traffic and are instead filled with music, dancing, games and shopping. The night market runs from Hang Dao Street to Dong Xuan Market and is a great place to try some of Vietnam’s iconic street eats like Banh Mi and Egg Coffee. Bring cash as most stalls don’t take cards.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre
Water puppetry is a uniquely Vietnamese tradition that dates back to the 11th century. Sitting next to Hoàn Kiếm Lake, it makes sense to visit Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre. Hour long performances bring legends, stories and the customs of Vietnam to life.

The French Quarter
Sitting just south of Hoàn Kiếm Lake this is an area of wide boulevards and grand buildings reflecting Hanoi’s colonial past.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum complex
Home to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum, Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House, the Ho Chi Minh Museum, the Presidential Palace and the One Pillar Pagoda. Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum is an immense grey granite structure takes Vietnamese and Soviet architectural influences, its robust presence symbolising the perseverance and the enduring spirit of the Vietnamese people.
Opening times vary and the mausoleum is closed for annual maintenance in the summer (typically June to August)

Vietnamese Women’s Museum
This interesting museum highlighting the roles of women in Vietnamese society and culture.

Temple of Literature
Temple complex spanning back 1000 years filled with ornate pavilions, shrines and pretty gardens.

What to eat

Northern dishes take influence from China. Vinegar is used to add sourness rather than tamarind used in southern cooking

Bun Cha
A street food classic of barbecued fatty pork patties and pickled veggies in a big bowl of broth. On the side, thin vermicelli rice noodles, herbs and a dipping sauce.

Northern Style Pho
Traditionally eaten for breakfast, Pho is one of Vietnam’s most iconic dishes. The northern style showcases wider rice noodles in a clear, delicate beef bone broth, garnished with coriander and green onion. While the southern style features thinner noodles in a rich, aromatic dark broth, topped with a fresh mix of bean sprouts, lime, and basil.

Banh Mi
Another super famous dish, this one dates back to the 1850s when the French occupied Vietnam for over 100 years. A soft baguette with a crisp crust, slathered with pâté and buttery mayonnaise, then piled high with cucumber, pickled carrots, daikon, coriander, and pork, finished with a sprinkle of seasoning. Originating in the south, it’s a popular eat all over the country, especially as a breakfast treat.

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Where to stay

Staying in either the Old Quarter or the French Quarter places you right in the heart of the city, making it easy to explore the main attractions, restaurants, and cultural sites.

The Old Quarter
Famous for bustling streets and a lively atmosphere, the area tends to have more affordable accommodation options – making it great for budget travellers. The downside of being in the centre of it all is that it’s pretty busy and can be noisy. Try to pick places that are tucked away a bit and pack earplugs if you’re a light sleeper.

The French Quarter
Elegant architecture and wide boulevards, this area features boutique and high-end hotels. It’s perfect for travellers looking for comfort, while still being within walking distance of everything.

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How to get to and out of Hanoi

Air
Noi Bai International Airport is roughly a 45 minute drive into the city. You can also choose from Metered taxis, Grabs and organised pickups with your tour operator or hotel. Public buses take longer and you should expect the journey to take about 90 minutes.
There are fewer international flights than Ho Chi Minh City but it is possible to fly direct from London with Vietnam Airlines.

By Rail
The railway from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City operates four trains with daily departures. Journeys take between 33 to 36 hours but with so much of the country in between you’ll want to stop along the way. Tickets can be purchased through travel agents travel agents, your accommodation or directly at the station. Prices vary depending on your budget and comfort level, from hand seats all the way up to private cabins.

How to get around

Walking around the Old Quarter and French Quarter
These areas are fairly compact making them easy to explore on foot. Wherever you are in the city the streets full of scooters. When crossing the road here you can’t depend on traffic lights. Just walk slowly and the traffic will weave around you.

Grabs
Asia’s popular ride-hailing app works just like Uber, making it easy to see exactly how much your journey will cost. You can also pay by card through the app so you don’t have to worry about carrying cash. This is why I prefer taking Grabs over taxis. While you don’t need a local phone number, the app does require internet to function. I recommend getting a local SIM on downloading an eSIM as it’s easier than trying to find Wi-Fi.

Visited December 2016
Little Amy Tours @littleamytours